Atyopsis moluccensis: Asian Fan, Filter, Wood, Flower Shrimp

Scientific Name: Atyopsis moluccensis

Common Names: Bamboo shrimp, Asian Filter shrimp, Asian Fan shrimp, Asian Filter shrimp, Wood shrimp, etc.

Origin: Asia

Size: 8 to 12 cm (2.7 to 3.9 inches or larger)

Water Parameters: 6.5 to 7.5 pH

Temperature: 73*F to 82*F (tropical temperatures)

Feeding: Filters mirco-things in the water current and must be provided with a water current

Larval Development: Eggs hatch to larvae which go through several development stages before they are adults; Need full marine to brackish water for development; Will NOT develop in fresh water

Behavior: Non-aggressive

Difficulty: Easy


Quick History
This is one of my favorite shrimp species. Absolutely do NOT let anyone tell you differently, every shrimp you find in every pet store and online that are for sale are WILD caught. There is no known successful captive breeding at this time. There have been many shrimp addicts who have been very close to successful captive breeding (including myself).

Water Parameters
Atyopsis moluccensis (Bamboo shrimp) are most comfortable if they are provided with a current and a perch for fanning/filtering their food. A good perch can be driftwood, rocks, or sturdy stem plants. To a bamboo shrimp, perch + strong current = heaven! When I had my colony of 14, I supplied them with plenty of branchy Malaysian driftwood and a powerhead, and they were happy and rarely moved from their spot. I should mention that because they are filter-feeders and when they have a comfortable spot, they will rarely move and because of this, they will have algae growing on their exoskeletons, and it's completely harmless to them. Bamboo shrimp are like the sloths of the shrimp family.

Breeding
As mentioned already, bamboo shrimp do not and will not breed in freshwater. They will mate, the females will carry eggs in freshwater, but once the eggs hatch, the larvae will need brackish to full marine water to develop. Again, do not let anyone tell you otherwise. There are many myths that there have been successful bamboo shrimp breeding in freshwater, so do not be fooled. There have also been many who have been very close to successful breeding, but sadly, it just hasn't been accomplished--yet. Hopefully, this will change in the near future.

Housing
A good size tank for bamboo shrimp is 20 gallons and up. Always be sure to provide a current and a perch for these shrimp. Warm, clean water is recommended. Avoid housing these extremely peaceful shrimp with fish that will harass them (cichilds, for example). Even though they are large and to some, may look aggressive, they are peaceful and will not harm the other inhabitants in the tank.


Feeding
Bamboo shrimp will thrive best in an aged tank because there are more micro-things and detritus for them to feed on. To supplement their diet, crushed or powdered spirulina or flake food can be added to the current. Bamboo shrimp can use their fans (which are basically modified, sticky chelae) to scrap the substrate for food, but this action should be avoided. If bamboo shrimp are doing this, it's a sign that there is not enough current, food in the current, and this should be resolved.

Sexing
Bamboo shrimp are easy to sex. The males' first set of walking legs are very large and pronounced, and their body size is larger than females. Females are generally smaller than males, and all sets of walking legs are about the same size as one another.

Coloration
Bamboo shrimp are usually a brown color. Healthy bamboo shrimp are a dark brown and light shades of brown create almost a striped color. Some will also display a bold, almost taupe stripe from head to tail. Some will be a reddish color. The paler the shrimp, the less happy they are. The more color they display, the happier they are.

Neocaridina heteropoda (wild): Wild Cherry Shrimp

Scientific Name: Neocaridina cf zhangjajiensis (white)

Common Name: Snowball shrimp

Origin: Color morph created by shrimp addict keeper, Ulf Gottschalk, located in Germany

Size: females up to 3.5 cm (1.2 in.)

Water Parameters: 6.5 to 8.4 pH (sometimes higher); Best in hard, alkaline water

Temperature: Best housed 69*F to 82*F

Feeding:algae, frozen bloodworms, blanched (par-boiled) vegetables (such as peas, zucchini, etc.), dead fish and shrimp, decaying plant matter

Larval Development: Suppressed; No larval stage; Eggs hatch to miniature adults

Behavior: Non-aggressive

Difficulty: Easy


Quick History
Snowball shrimp were one of the only completely white shrimp in the hobby until a few years ago. They are a color morph of Neocaridina cf zhangjajiensis (wild) that were created in Germany by Ulf Gottschalk.

Water Parameters
Snowball shrimp are a good choice for the novice shrimp addict keeper. They will thrive best in hard, alkaline water (much like African rift cichlids) in tropical temperatures. Lower temperatures will slow down this shrimp species--slower reproduction rate, slower metabolism, etc. Snowball shrimp must have clean water, or they will not flourish--the colony will slowly deteriorate.

Breeding
Snowball shrimp are slightly less prolific breeders in comparison to RCS. Simply add male and female snowball shrimp, clean water, proper water parameters, and wait for the eggs to hatch. Females will display a white "saddle" (named this because it looks like she has an English saddle on her back when her ovaries are carrying unfertilized eggs. When she molts, she also releases hormones and pheromones into the water. This will send all males in the aquarium into a breeding frenzy, and the males will swim vigorously in their search to find the freshly-molted female. The lucky male will flip her over on her back and mate with her. If copulation is successful, the eggs leave the ovaries (the saddle will disappear), and she will carry the fertilized eggs in her swimmerets (legs under her tail) for about 30 to 45 days (shrimp addicts keepers called this "berried"). Snowball shrimp got their name from the white eggs, which look like snowballs. As the eggs develop and if you look closely enough, you can see the eggs turned slightly different colors and also see small, black dots which are the eyes of the developing shrimp inside the eggs. As the shrimplets develop inside the eggs, the eggs will slowly turn a yellow color. If the female drops any eggs while she is berried, do not fret. She will sometimes drop eggs because the are not fertile, she maybe stressed due to water parameters, another male may have been aggressive towards her, she may be a first-time mother, or something just wasn't right. A healthy female shrimp can be berried and display a saddle at the same time. The female will not molt while she is berried, and she may spend most of her time perched somewhere fanning her eggs. Fanning keeps the eggs moving and aerated to promote healthy shrimplets and their development.

Housing
Snowball shrimp are not too picky about their surroundings. They can be kept in planted tanks (which is my preference), bare bottom tanks, and even clown puke tanks (which I do not recommend). Ten gallon aquariums are highly recommended for the novice shrimp addict keeper because it's easier to keep water parameters under control, and because it's a great size to start with a small shrimp colony and watch it grow. A good substrate is one that is inert (will not affect the water parameters and pH) and one in which makes the shrimp stand-out. I always recommend as dark a substrate as possible. A light for the tank is also recommended but not exactly necessary so the shrimp can be seen and to promote the growth of micro-things and algae for the shrimp to feed on.

Feeding
Snowball shrimp are not picky eaters. They will gladly eat just about anything, but a stable, healthy diet is always preferred. Vegetable such as blanched (parboiled) zucchini, spinach, peas, algae growing in the aquarium, nori wraps (used for making Sushi rolls, and the stuff sold for feeding saltwater fish--same stuff BTW, but the nori sold in the grocery stores is cheaper and you get more for your money), and even cleaned strawberries. They will also eat frozen foods like bloodworms. Dried spirulina flakes and flake fish food can be fed. They will also eat decaying plant matter, decaying fish, and decaying shrimp. Live foods can also be cultured. Snowball shrimp do not have to be fed every day, especially if their tank is "aged". The more aged the tank is, the more micro-things there are in the tank for them to eat.

Sexing and Coloration
Snowball shrimp are easy to sex. One of the first obvious differences is that the female has a white saddle on her back. Males do not have a saddle for obvious reasons. Females are usually slightly larger than the male, and she also has a larger tail than the male so she can carry eggs. Males are smaller and have a thinner and shorter tail than the female. Both males and females are white and can display different color intensities. They will be more white due to genetics and also based on how comfortable they are. Good water parameters make for colorful, happy shrimp. Males will display slightly less white than females. Some female snowball shrimp will also display a faint gold shrimp that runs the length of their bodies.

Neocaridina cf zhangjajiensis (white): Snowball Shrimp

Scientific Name: Neocaridina cf zhangjajiensis (white)

Common Name: Snowball shrimp

Origin: Color morph created by shrimp addict keeper, Ulf Gottschalk, located in Germany

Size: females up to 3.5 cm (1.2 in.)

Water Parameters: 6.5 to 8.4 pH (sometimes higher); Best in hard, alkaline water

Temperature: Best housed 69*F to 82*F

Feeding:algae, frozen bloodworms, blanched (par-boiled) vegetables (such as peas, zucchini, etc.), dead fish and shrimp, decaying plant matter

Larval Development: Suppressed; No larval stage; Eggs hatch to miniature adults

Behavior: Non-aggressive

Difficulty: Easy


Quick History
Snowball shrimp were one of the only completely white shrimp in the hobby until a few years ago. They are a color morph of Neocaridina cf zhangjajiensis (wild) that were created in Germany by Ulf Gottschalk.

Water Parameters
Snowball shrimp are a good choice for the novice shrimp addict keeper. They will thrive best in hard, alkaline water (much like African rift cichlids) in tropical temperatures. Lower temperatures will slow down this shrimp species--slower reproduction rate, slower metabolism, etc. Snowball shrimp must have clean water, or they will not flourish--the colony will slowly deteriorate.

Breeding
Snowball shrimp are slightly less prolific breeders in comparison to RCS. Simply add male and female snowball shrimp, clean water, proper water parameters, and wait for the eggs to hatch. Females will display a white "saddle" (named this because it looks like she has an English saddle on her back when her ovaries are carrying unfertilized eggs. When she molts, she also releases hormones and pheromones into the water. This will send all males in the aquarium into a breeding frenzy, and the males will swim vigorously in their search to find the freshly-molted female. The lucky male will flip her over on her back and mate with her. If copulation is successful, the eggs leave the ovaries (the saddle will disappear), and she will carry the fertilized eggs in her swimmerets (legs under her tail) for about 30 to 45 days (shrimp addicts keepers called this "berried"). Snowball shrimp got their name from the white eggs, which look like snowballs. As the eggs develop and if you look closely enough, you can see the eggs turned slightly different colors and also see small, black dots which are the eyes of the developing shrimp inside the eggs. As the shrimplets develop inside the eggs, the eggs will slowly turn a yellow color. If the female drops any eggs while she is berried, do not fret. She will sometimes drop eggs because the are not fertile, she maybe stressed due to water parameters, another male may have been aggressive towards her, she may be a first-time mother, or something just wasn't right. A healthy female shrimp can be berried and display a saddle at the same time. The female will not molt while she is berried, and she may spend most of her time perched somewhere fanning her eggs. Fanning keeps the eggs moving and aerated to promote healthy shrimplets and their development.

Housing
Snowball shrimp are not too picky about their surroundings. They can be kept in planted tanks (which is my preference), bare bottom tanks, and even clown puke tanks (which I do not recommend). Ten gallon aquariums are highly recommended for the novice shrimp addict keeper because it's easier to keep water parameters under control, and because it's a great size to start with a small shrimp colony and watch it grow. A good substrate is one that is inert (will not affect the water parameters and pH) and one in which makes the shrimp stand-out. I always recommend as dark a substrate as possible. A light for the tank is also recommended but not exactly necessary so the shrimp can be seen and to promote the growth of micro-things and algae for the shrimp to feed on.

Feeding
Snowball shrimp are not picky eaters. They will gladly eat just about anything, but a stable, healthy diet is always preferred. Vegetable such as blanched (parboiled) zucchini, spinach, peas, algae growing in the aquarium, nori wraps (used for making Sushi rolls, and the stuff sold for feeding saltwater fish--same stuff BTW, but the nori sold in the grocery stores is cheaper and you get more for your money), and even cleaned strawberries. They will also eat frozen foods like bloodworms. Dried spirulina flakes and flake fish food can be fed. They will also eat decaying plant matter, decaying fish, and decaying shrimp. Live foods can also be cultured. Snowball shrimp do not have to be fed every day, especially if their tank is "aged". The more aged the tank is, the more micro-things there are in the tank for them to eat.

Sexing and Coloration
Snowball shrimp are easy to sex. One of the first obvious differences is that the female has a white saddle on her back. Males do not have a saddle for obvious reasons. Females are usually slightly larger than the male, and she also has a larger tail than the male so she can carry eggs. Males are smaller and have a thinner and shorter tail than the female. Both males and females are white and can display different color intensities. They will be more white due to genetics and also based on how comfortable they are. Good water parameters make for colorful, happy shrimp. Males will display slightly less white than females. Some female snowball shrimp will also display a faint gold shrimp that runs the length of their bodies.

Neocaridina heteropoda (red): Red Cherry Shrimp (RCS)

Scientific Name: Neocaridina heteropoda (red)

Common Name: Red Cherry Shrimp (RCS)

Origin: Taiwan and southern China (original wild strain; red morph believed to have been created in Japan)

Size: females up to 3 cm (1.2 in.)

Water Parameters: 6.5 to 7.5 pH (sometimes higher)

Temperature: Best housed at 65*F to 80*F

Feeding: Micro-things in the aquarium, algae, frozen bloodworms, blanched (par-boiled) vegetables (such as peas, zucchini, etc.), dead fish and shrimp, decaying plant matter

Larval Development: Suppressed; No larval stage; Eggs hatch to miniature adults

Behavior: Non-aggressive

Difficulty: Easy


Quick History
Red cherry red shrimp (RCS) are a color morph of Neocaridina heteropoda (wild). The country of origin of this color morph is debatable, but one thing is for certain: it was created by shrimp addict keepers.

Water Parameters
These shrimp are perfect for the beginner shrimp addict keeper. They are tolerant of a wide range of pH from 6.5 to 7.5, hard or soft water. Neocaridina heteropoda (wild) can also thrive in stable temperatures from 65*F to 80*F (sometimes higher or lower).

Breeding
RCS are prolific breeders (comparable to guppies). Simply add male and female RCS, clean water, proper water parameters, and wait for the eggs to hatch. Females will display a yellow or green "saddle" (named this because it looks like she has an English saddle on her back when her ovaries are carrying unfertilized eggs. When she molts, she also releases hormones and pheromones into the water. This will send all males in the aquarium into a breeding frenzy, and the males will swim vigorously in their search to find the freshly-molted female. The lucky male will flip her over on her back and mate with her. If copulation is successful, the eggs leave the ovaries (the saddle will disappear), and she will carry the fertilized eggs in her swimmerets (legs under her tail) for about 30 to 45 days (shrimp addicts keepers called this "berried"). As the eggs develop and if you look closely enough, you can see the eggs turned slightly different colors and also see small, black dots which are the eyes of the developing shrimp inside the eggs. If the female drops any eggs while she is berried, do not fret. She will sometimes drop eggs because the are not fertile, she maybe stressed due to water parameters, another male may have been aggressive towards her, she may be a first-time mother, or something just wasn't right. A healthy female shrimp can be berried and display a saddle at the same time. The female will not molt while she is berried, and she may spend most of her time perched somewhere fanning her eggs. Fanning keeps the eggs moving and aerated to promote healthy shrimplets and their development.

Housing
RCS are not too picky about their surroundings. They can be kept in planted tanks (which is my preference), bare bottom tanks, and even clown puke tanks (which I do not recommend). Ten gallon aquariums are highly recommended for the novice shrimp addict keeper because it's easier to keep water parameters under control, and because it's a great size to start with a small shrimp colony and watch it grow. A good substrate is one that is inert (will not affect the water parameters and pH) and one in which makes the shrimp stand-out. I always recommend as dark a substrate as possible. A light for the tank is also recommended but not exactly necessary so the shrimp can be seen and to promote the growth of micro-things and algae for the shrimp to feed on. Housing RCS with carnivorous fish is not recommended. Shrimp are very near the bottom of the food chain, which means they are preyed upon by many fish. Shrimplets are especially prone to predation because of their small, bite-sized stature.

Feeding
RCS are not picky eaters. They will gladly eat just about anything, but a stable, healthy diet is always preferred. Vegetable such as blanched (parboiled) zucchini, spinach, peas, algae growing in the aquarium, nori wraps (used for making Sushi rolls, and the stuff sold for feeding saltwater fish--same stuff BTW, but the nori sold in the grocery stores is cheaper and you get more for your money), and even cleaned strawberries. They will also eat frozen foods like bloodworms. Dried spirulina flakes and flake fish food can be fed. They will also eat decaying plant matter, decaying fish, and decaying shrimp. Live foods can also be cultured. RCS do not have to be fed every day, especially if their tank is "aged". The more aged the tank is, the more micro-things there are in the tank for them to eat.

Sexing and Coloration
RCS are easy to sex. One of the first obvious differences is that the female has a saddle on her back. Males do not have a saddle for obvious reasons. Females are usually slightly larger than the male, and she also has a larger tail than the male so she can carry eggs. Males are smaller and have a thinner and shorter tail than the female. Females are red and can display different color intensities. They will be more red due to genetics and also based on how comfortable they are. Good water parameters make for colorful, happy shrimp. Males will display less red than females.

Basic Freshwater Shrimp Care

This is my favorite topic to discuss in the aquarium hobby: freshwater shrimp. I can't get enough of these guys. It just stinks that I can't have a 240 gallon aquarium filled with every shrimp species available because some species will hybridize. The thought of all the different colors and shrimp doing what shrimp do is a pleasant thought, but it's not possible.

I am going to cover the basics in freshwater shrimp care, and as time goes by, I will add species specific care guides.

Shrimp will thrive best if they have their own aquarium. This is because they are almost at the very bottom of the food chain, and if housed in a community tank, they will be harassed by the other inhabitants. Even if you do not see it with your own eyes, fish in the community tank will pick on the shrimp every chance they get. Shrimp will hide and basically stay stressed if housed in a community tank. Give your shrimp their own aquarium, and they will be out and about and will be much enjoyed.

Basic care of freshwater shrimp is very easy if you have just a smidgen of patience.

Aquarium Size
It is recommended by shrimp breeders that nothing smaller than a 10 gallon be used. Yes, shrimp are tiny, but they need superb water quality to thrive. This is most easily achieved in 10 gallon and larger aquariums.

Filtration
To achieve superb water quality, you will need a filter. There are several options out there. Most shrimp breeders use sponge filters in their breeding tanks so that fry do not get sucked up into the filter, which would then run a good chance of them being chopped up by the impeller. I personally hate sponge filters because I don't think they do a good enough job, and they are just plain ugly. All of my tanks are display tanks because I don't have a fish room--gotta love apartment living and a budget tighter than a 90 year-old nun's hooha--because of this, all my tanks have to look good because they are in full view of anyone and everyone that comes into my apartment. I also do not like the noise from air pumps. I have used ZooMed 501 mini canister filters, AquaClear 20, 50, and 70 filters, and an Eheim Classic 2213 in my shrimp tanks. All filters were fitted with a piece of women's pantie hose (or nylons) over the filter intake and secured with a plastic cable tie. This keeps the babies out of the filters.

Substrate
Any inert substrate can be used in a shrimp tank. This can be gravel or sand. I have only used Eco-Complete, aquarium gravel, and bare bottom tanks. Some shrimp breeders prefer to use leaf litter for substrate. From my own observations, shrimp prefer a dark substrate. A darker substrate will help bring out their color and will help keep them happy. It's also easier for you to see them.

To Plant or Not to Plant?
This has been up for debates for sometime now within the shrimp hobby.

The Apple Snail

The apple snail (Pomacea bridgesii)isn't necessarily one of my favorite aquatic animals, but I find them interesting nonetheless. Maybe it's the spiral in their shell, maybe it's because they give me the creeps, maybe it's because they won't eat the live shrimp in my shrimp tanks. Whatever the case maybe, I have four of these in my 30 gallon aquarium. The apple snails that I have are the gold (or yellow) color morph and were given to me by a friend who's female had nearly two hundred babies. More on population control to come.

Apple snails are a sometimes found in the stores as "mystery snails". I'm not sure why someone chose this common name--it's a mystery to me. They are also often listed with the incorrect Latin name which can make research on them difficult to most people. It's important that you correctly identify what species you add into your tank because each has their own diet and needs. Some species will absolutely eat live plants, some will eat plants if their dietary needs aren't met, and some will not munch on your plants. Snail identification methods look at the shape of the shell, the spiral of the shell and in which direction it grows, what body parts are there, the size and shape of the foot, and sometimes the coloration of the shell.

Most of us who purchase an apple snail from the store will most likely bring home Pomacea bridgesii, so we will focus on those.

General care of the apple snail is quite easy. First, we must talk about the myth that surrounds snails: Snails eat algae and fish poop. This is not completely true. I can't tell you how many even highly experienced fish keepers believe this. Yes, some snails will eat some algae. Snails will not thrive on algae alone. Algae cannot provide nearly enough calcium and nutrition to sustain a healthy shell. A healthy shell means a healthy snail. If fed properly, apple snails will not eat live vegetation in the aquarium. Remember I mentioned that I have four in my aquarium? My aquarium is heavily planted, and I have only observed them eating the dead and dying leaves of my Sagittaria subulata (this was not long after planting it in my aquarium). The only live plants that I have seen them eat were very fine-leaved plants, and at the time, I was slacking in feeding them. Once I was feeding them properly, they stopped eating the fine-leaved plants. Apple snails will also scavenge dead animals (even other snails) in the aquarium. I've seen them eat dead mollies, guppies, shrimp, other snails (including their own species), and other various aquatic life. All that is a nice addition to their regular diet, but they cannot thrive on those things. My four are doing very well on sinking shrimp pellets, TetraMin Tropical Crisps, spirulina flakes, sinking algae wafers, frozen bloodworms, and a sinking food called "snail jello". Here is the recipe from www.applesnail.net:

Ingredients:

*1 jar baby food (any; can be substituted with canned or par boiled fresh or frozen vegetables)
*1 packet unflavored, no sugar-added gelatin (for example: Knox)
*Calcium powder (I use Jurassi-Cal, which can be found in the reptile section of most pet stores; calcium powder and tablets for human consumption can also be used)
*Fish Food (optional; flake or anything you are trying to get rid of)

Instructions:

*Super heat baby food (or what you have chosen for vegetables) in microwave (about one minute) in a bowl
*Add calcium, fish food, etc. Stir.
* Stir in gelatin. Spoon in mixture into a plastic container, deep plate, or a mold. (Something flat and about 1-inch deep will work
*Allow to set for about 10 to 20 minutes.
*Cut into pieces. Freeze in a single layer.
* After frozen, put into a plastic bag for storage.
*Can be re-hydrated with a bit of tank water.

This is an excellent recipe and is very versatile. The vegetable ingredients can be switched each time you make. This recipe is VERY easy to make and is easy on the budget. My shrimp and crayfish love this recipe, too--which is great because they also benefit from it. Bottom-dwelling fish love this recipe as well. There is no set rule to how much you should feed them. Apple snails do have slowed to no activity in the fall and winter months. During the spring and fall, you should feed them as much as they want. Do keep a check on the water parameters!
More food = more poo = more ammonia!
Apple snails will eat most par-boiled vegetables, micro-organisms in the aquarium, algae, dead things, and anything they may find tasty.

To give you apple snail a happy home, here are a few guidelines to keep in mind:

~Each snail requires a minimum of 2.5 gallons. It's a very good idea to keep the aquarium very well covered because these guys are very good at walking out of the aquarium, especially the females because these snails lay their eggs outside of the water. It's also a good idea to leave an air space of a few inches from the surface of the water and the aquarium lid because they breathe atmospheric air.

~They can live in water with a pH of 6.5 to 8, but will do much better in a higher pH to sustain a healthy shell. The shell has a tendency to corrode and weaken in a low pH.

~ They should be housed in temperatures from 65*F - 82*F, but never keep them at temperatures lower than 65*F. These temperatures make them good for keeping in garden ponds, but please check your local laws on keeping these snails. They are illegal in some states due to their destructive nature to rice fields and non-native waterways.

~Apple snails have separate sexes, which means you need two to tango. The peak time for reproduction is in the spring. Mated females or females who have stored semen (females have the ability to store semen for several months) will look for a way to leave the water. Females lay eggs in cluthces above the water line. If they do this, you can make the decision to leave the egg clutch so the babies can hatch, or you can simply remove the egg cluster and discard it. Easy population control. If you leave the eggs to hatch, they will hatch in 2 to 3 weeks, depending on humidity and temperature. Once the eggs hatch, they will head for the water. Same care for the babies as for the adults. Babies will need to be protected from fish that will eat them.

This information can be used as a guideline for most snail species.

Quick Introduction

I just want to leave somewhat of a quick introduction about myself, and how I was started in the aquarium "hobby".

When I was a fry, my mom and dad had a fifty-five gallon freshwater tropical aquarium. I remember two kissing gouramis, neon tetras, a common plecostomus, and a few other fish. I have had my own fish and own aquariums at various times throughout my life. Fast forward to November 2005, and I bought myself a one gallon fish bowl, all the stuff to put in it, and...wait for it...wait for it...I bought a small koi (you read that right)...a KOI.



After the koi died, which was after I had it for only a few days, I bought a "beta". I learned a lot with this little guy. I learned about what the nitrogen cycle is, how to properly stock an aquarium, and that "beta" is incorrect.

So, about February 2005, I bought an Eclipse Hex 5 acrylic aquarium. My little "beta" got a huge upgrade on his home. He later died though because I thought he could live through the nitrogen cycle. I look at it as a huge learning experience. I guess it was about March or April 2005 I bought my thirty gallon (long) aquarium. I was so excited to get this baby because the largest aquarium that I had ever had was a mere five gallons. This aquarium has become my second child, and I have loved it since the day that I bought it. With this tank, I have learned much of the aquarium hobby. I don't think I will ever be able to sell it because I have become attached to it. I need to get some good pics of it so I can share it with everyone.

Last year, I had a total of fourteen aquariums. Ten of those were actually setup and being used, and the others were empty. I was breeding different fish, shrimp, and snail species. I was also growing different species of aquatic plants. Earlier this year (2007), I had to have a major down-sizing. I sold almost everything I had, but I couldn't list my thirty gallon for sale. My heart wouldn't let me do it. So, I kept it and most of everything that was in there. I was down from fourteen aquariums to one.

Now, I am up to nine aquariums. There will be no more for me until I have another down-sizing in the coming year. I really want a seventy-five gallon aquarium, and in order for me to do that, I need to down-size again. I will have no room for everything in my home. I'll probably keep a five gallon though for a betta (that's the correct term).

This was just a quick introduction to this blog. I will be adding snippets of things I have learned in such a short amount of time. I understand that I do not have as much experience as some fish keepers, but I know that I have learned a lot.

I do not consider myself an expert, because I believe there is no such thing--especially in this hobby. Things change quite a bit in this hobby. For example, the red cherry shrimp (RCS) are on their third scientific classification in about two years. In any case, no one has the capacity to know everything about anything.

The key to knowledge is to research on your own and to simply do it.